Yes. As long as you're under the 20,000-lbs capacity, which you would be with those two trailers, you can use the Convert-A-Ball Cushioned 5th-Wheel-to-Gooseneck Adapter - 12" to 16" Tall - 20,000 lbs # CAB-C5G. view full answer...
You would need to connect the 12 volt accessory circuit wire from your 7-way connection to the positive post of your trailer's battery. This will put a maintenance charge on the battery when you are towing. Then to power the light you would also need to run the positive wire of the light to the positive post of the battery.
This will allow the battery to charge and will allow the light to be powered by the battery. view full answer...
The best suspension enhancement kit for your 2004 Ford F-350 dually for your application is the RoadActive Suspension kit part # RAS3611-HD as it gives you the support you are wanting, is easy to install, and unlike other options (including two you mentioned) that hurt the ride quality this actually improves the ride quality and stability. view full answer...
If you click on the link below, you can see the installation instructions for the Universal Install Kit, part # RP30035. The section on page 10 refers to your truck. You might want to consider using one of the custom install kits, which would cut nearly half of the time off of the installation.
If your F-250 is the LD model, use part # RP50042-58, or for the HD model, part # RP50082-58. I will provide links to the installation instructions below. view full answer...
There is no exact setting I can recommend. The necessary setting will vary according several different factors, such as the weight of the trailer and its load, the age and condition of the brake pads, the age and condition of the brake magnets, the condition of the brake drums, and how the trailer brakes are adjusted. The best way to figure out the correct setting is by trial and error. Find a large empty parking lot, load the trailer as you would typically have it, and make some test stops.... view full answer...
The lamp you referred to, part # STL80RB is intended for use as a third brake lamp, but it could be used as a single function lamp only. It is not meant to operate as a multiple function lamp. This would explain why the lamp is not doing what you are wanting.
The # STL79RB is designed as a 3 function lamp, stop, turn and tail light. If you wanted to use one of the # STL79RB lamps on either side and the # STL80RB you referenced only as a center-mounted stop light, you can do so, but you... view full answer...
I reached out to TorkLift and they told me that while the FastGun turnbuckles do not have a specific weight capacity in regards to the camper, they are designed to hold down a camper at the anchor point with 300 lbs of pull-down force per turnbuckle (so 1,200 lbs per set of our). The pull-down force is significant because it is what ensures the stability of the camper when anchored.
That said, we have also been told in the past by TorkLift that the anchors are designed to hold the largest... view full answer...
A 2 or 2-1/8 inch diameter hole saw will work well for you to install the # PK11893-11932 connector.
If you click on the link I provided, you can see a different video showing the connector being installed on a 2012 Ford F350 that mentions the size of the hole saw. view full answer...
For a 15 inch wheel like the Karrier ST205/75R15 Radial Trailer Tire with 15" White Wheel - 5 on 4-1/2 - Load Range C # AM32395, 90-95 ft lbs of torque is probably about right for your trailer rims. If you check out the lug nut torque chart that I attached you will see that nearly all of the torque specs are that and higher. view full answer...
The Timbren Vehicle Suspension Kit # TFR350SDF for your 2006 Ford F-350when installed correctly will have a gap between the bottom of the springs and the vehicle suspension. This gap is typically 1-inch or less according to my technical contact at Timbren. (Please note that this clearance gap is not unique to this product; similar products from other brands also can have a gap when installed correctly. Please refer to the included article if you wish.)
This small gap is intentional and... view full answer...
On the 2011 Ford F-250 Super Duty, the brake controller port is located behind the center dashboard access panel on the passenger's side. One end of the # 3034-P adapter will plug into the back of the brake controller and the other end plugs into the brake controller port on your vehicle.
If your vehicle has the factory 7-Way connector on the rear of your vehicle, then all of the wires for the brake controller have already been run.
If you have a factory 4-Way connector on your vehicle... view full answer...
Yes, you could use the Derale Radiator Adapter Fittings for Ford, part # D13025, to allow you to use Derale Series 8000 Plate-Fin Transmission Cooler Kit, part # D13504, with the factory cooler that is on your 2002 Ford Super Duty truck.
You would want to route the Derale cooler after the factory cooler. By that I mean you would want to run the transmission coolant line from the transmission, to the factory cooler, then to the # 23785, and finally back to the transmission cooler.
Routing... view full answer...
I attached a picture that shows the pin out diagram for the Pollak 5th Wheel / Gooseneck T-Connector with 7-Pole # PK11893-11932 that you referenced. view full answer...
Basically you will need to drill into the side plates of Curt hitch # C15810 to install TorkLift custom rear camper tie downs # TLR3500 on your 2002 Ford F-350. I have included a link to the installation instructions for the tie downs for you. I have also linked a video showing an example installation on a different vehicle that takes the same tie downs. view full answer...
Modern vehicles use a negative ground system which is what your 2001 Ford F-250 should have unless it was ever modified for any reason which is very unlikely. Every brake controller that I have seen uses the black wire for 12 volt positive power into the brake controller. The white wire is the ground and goes to the negative battery terminal either directly or through a factory plug.
Harness # 3035-P would be the correct one for your truck. It is designed to fit Tekonsha brake controllers... view full answer...
The main problem with mounting the hitch so that the kingpin falls that far back in the bed is that having all that weight behind the rear axle would lighten the load on the front axle to the point that steering control and braking power might be compromised. A much better alternative would be to use a hitch with a slider such as part # RP30051 or a Sidewinder rotating pin box. view full answer...
If you are speaking of the connector just to the left of the brake controller connector, unfortunately, I do not know its purpose.
If your Activator II controller has a plug on it that is not compatible with the Ford connector under the dash, you can cut the existing connector off the controller, and use a # 3035-P wiring adapter and cut off the black connector. Then use butt connectors to connect the controller the brake controller wiring harness. The harness would easily connect to your... view full answer...
The Curt Gooseneck Hitch part # C640-644 that you referenced is a fit for your 2008 Ford F-250 short bed.
Yes, you would need to lower the exhaust on your 2008 Ford F-250 to install Curt gooseneck trailer hitch # C640-644. It is required on 2005 and newer models that have a diesel motor. After looking at the installation details for the other hitches that fit your truck, this is something that would have to be done to install any of them.
Lowering the exhaust isn't too difficult. If... view full answer...
For 5th wheel trailer hitch installation kit # RP50082-58 the spacer blocks that fit between the bed and bottoms of the rails can be more critical on some trucks depending on the corrugation configuration of the truck bed. Basically if where the bolts go on the rails there is the low part of the bed corrugation then a spacer will need to be used. It isn't just to prevent damage to the bed but to increase the amount of surface contact between the rail and the bed. The fewer gaps there are... view full answer...
Great question! The All Terrain Landing Gear for RV Scissor Steps, # TLA8000, work with most factory scissor steps. Many steps like Brophy Scissor Steps # AS23 use rivets. You are correct - the rivets will need to be drilled out using a 1/4" drill bit. Once this is completed, you will replace the lower hoop of the steps using the hardware that is provided. (See attached diagram.)
To further increase the safety of your steps, you may want to consider adding a handrail like # AHR3. I've... view full answer...
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